Our Wakes: 2016

After visiting the West coast of Corsica, we decided to visit eastern Sardinia. Many sailors had told us that we would like it very much and probably even more than Corsica. While it is difficult to compare the two islands, the eastern part of Sardinia is truly exceptional. In tourist pamflets it is also called the emerald coast. The coast of Sardinia is mountainous, too, but not as high in general as Corsica. However, the coast offers many places  in which a boat can anchor for the night. There is always an anchorage that can protect you from the wind, whatever the direction is. While at first, we were afraid we would be exposed to exhorbitant Marina fees, in fact, we spent more then one month without visiting a Marina. Some harbors even have a public jetty where it is allowed to dock for free, for only 24hrs in theory, put in practice, you can stay longer. Sardinia is full of tourists in July and August and many resorts and camping sites have been established along the coast, but surprisingly, they are well integrated into the landscape and do not spoil the scenery. However,  some camping sites are very noisy at night with loud music that can be heard even if you are moored 100m away. Below are some of the places we visited in Sardinia The natural reserve of Maddalena islands When leaving Corsica you pass along the Maddalena islands. This natural park is a marine area where all nautical activity requires a visitor's permit. Local people can do what they want without  a permit so the question is really, how much is it protected? The Maddalena islands offer plenty of opportunities for visitors who can enjoy the beaches, cycling or even walking on the islands. In the past, the Maddalena islands were used by the Americans who had a military base there for their nuclear submarines. Unfortunately, there was an accident in 2003 when a submarine hit the rocks. Despite denials, radioactive water did escape and high levels of Strontium could be measured in the seaweed.  Despite these denials, public opinion strongly rejected the US presence and the base was closed in 2003. Today, there are many abandoned military buildings  all over the islands, but nature is slowly erasing this ruins. Tavolara Rock Further south, there is a rock that emerges from the sea. The top of the rock is more or less flat, resembling a tabletop. On the west side of the rock there is a little creeck that offers a good anchorage if there is no wind. We anchored there one night and being moored next to the big rock is quit impressive. Of course the rock is a natural reserve and non locals are prohibited from doing anything. Molara pool Not far from Tavolara lies Molara island which has a shallow area on the west side. This area is only 6 meters deep and the white sand gives the sea a beautifull swimming pool-like color. That's the reason people call this place the Molara pool. During the day, hundreds of boats drop the anchor and spend the day in the area. La Caletta. This is a little port just before de Orosei bay. We stopped over to take shelter for a few days. This port has a public pontoon were you can dock freely. The city has a good supermarket allowing us to supply the boat for several days. North of la Caletta, you find the village of Posada. The village is up on a rock, with the houses built all around the rock with the remains of a fortified tower on top. Orosei Golf After la Caletta you reach the golf of Orosei. This area has a unique geological structure with calcareous cliffs dropping vertically into the sea. At numerous places, the sea has attacked the cliff and carved several caves. During the day, hundreds of boats are visit the place, which is very disturbing. Luckily at 6pm the place becomes quiet again. The sandy bottom along the cliffs gives the sea  a nice swimming pool like color. Blue Marino cave. In the middle of the Orosei Gulf you see some boats entering the cliff. In reality, this is the mouth of a river that ends there. The boats just drop visitors at the entrance for a 1h visit into the cave. The river goes inland and is 63km long. Tourists can only travel up one km, but you can see magnificent stalactites and stalagmites. In the past a group of seals loved the cave, but now they no longer exist. Cala Di Luna Still in the Orosei Gulf, there is a river that ends on a beach. The place is nice and most of the time the river is dry. Once again nice sands and swimming pool like water around the beach. The downside is that this is a spot all tourists visit. Our advice is to get there before the tourists arrive,  in you own boat. You will be alone when you visit this beautiful spot. Everybody that has seen the place will always remember it.